Hills, vultures and exploring

So today was when the climbing officially got under way, although I have to say that it was a pretty moderate day by our standards ( until I suggested we go exploring). It was a 10 mile 'lumpy' ride to a place designated as a coffee stop - who in their right mind has a coffee stop after 10 miles?  We didn't want to appear unfriendly so we did stop, but a couple of the others went straight through and in future we would do the same. The first col, straight after coffee, split everyone up and the Mechanic and I then rode together to the designated lunch spot. The only time we saw any of the others was at the Spanish border. We cycled across past the shuttered French douane, round a roundabout and back into France - don't ask me why!

The next col was just a moderate, well graded climb which didn't even require us to get into the small ring on our triple, then a nice descent to Esplette where we were supposed to meet the others for lunch. We were the first to arrive and as it wasn't even noon we bought some bread and told the van drivers we were going to head on a bit further and have a picnic, then when we reached the village of Bidarray the route went back out to a main road for a long run down to St Jean Pied de Port where we are staying tonight. However I had seen a little back road that went over the mountains and only hit the main road a few miles from our destination - so we decided to explore ( the Mechanic isn't speaking to me now). 

Before that however we had a lovely ride along the Nive river, slightly hillier than expected and single track with passing places, plus a very poor road surface. We stopped for lunch overlooking the river and probably stayed a bit too long as we struggled to get going afterwards. The vultures were circling overhead, which was slightly worrying especially with what was to come. When we got to Bidarray the faster members of the group caught us and one of them, Steve, decided he would like to one with us over the mountains.  Was I being cursed by at least one member of the party......... The road headed up at an almost unrideable angle and I actually thought we might have to get off and walk when the gradient eased slightly ( and temporarily). The road continued to climb in a series of switchbacks for what seemed like miles, but probably wasn't, getting our heart rates into the red zone, out the other side and off the visible light spectrum. However the road had obviously been recently re-surfaced, we didn't see a single car in either direction and the views were spectacular ( and the vultures kept their distance). The descent was good but too twisty for cowardy custards likes the Humes to take full advantage. The others all descent at incredible speeds, but we are rather more steady in our approach. 

Very fast run into St. Jean de PP and then an orienteering exercise to find the hotel which is on a steep cobbled street within the city walls. We were last to arrive and had to pay the penalty of cold showers as the hotel hot water system couldn't cope. More washing draped from the balcony (we are lucky to have one of only 4 rooms with a balcony). Have been out exploring but could have done without the steep cobbled streets. This place is on the pilgrim route and stuffed full of nasty religious souvenirs and other tat, but the buildings and the Citadelle are amazing. We have restricted use of wi- fi here, so I'll tell you more about the other riders another time.  Over 5,500 feet of climbing tomorrow so time now for some serious pasta loading!

Photos include the Mechanic glowering at me as he approaches the top of the hill, me (rather red in the face) surveying the view from our balcony, some circling vultures and shots of the route.