Saturday 10 September 2016

Apologies and thunderstorms

Sorry about yesterday - 2 weeks of temperatures near or above 30 degrees (90F in old money) and more exposure to full sun than I am used to left me feeling a bit unwell and when it came to 'blog time' I went to bed instead. Unfortunately the  windows here can only be opened when you are up, dressed and present in the place since they open on to the pavement of a reasonably busy street at hip height - so it is impossible to cool the room down to a sensible sleeping temperature. Our room at Velo Jaune was also on the ground floor - but was so isolated you didn't need to worry about burglars too much! 
Anyway, after the double col day on Thursday we decided on an easier day yesterday so got up a bit later and faffed around a bit before heading off for a short, and supposedly easy bike ride. Had my navigation not gone a bit haywire (we left the map behind!!) it would have been almost impossible to complete in our fatigued state. Luckily (as it turned out) we did the route in reverse which meant the climb was on a much gentler gradient, while the descent involved 18 hairpins - 17 of which came in 2km!!  By the time we got down my hands were in spasm trying to keep the speed manageable - it was very steep. For followers of the TdF we were riding the Lacats / Mont Vernier route, which appeared on the Tour for the first time in 2015. The road is so narrow that no spectators were allowed so it probably won't be a regular addition.

We got back and sat outdoors under a shelter watching The Vuelta on Eurosport, complete with incomprehensible French commentary and then just stayed put with our books / wine / views while deciding what to do today. Not many photos on such a quiet day
So what about today I hear you ask. We both woke up feeling a bit more energetic and planned a rather optimistic day - ride 9 miles up the valley from St Jean de Maurienne to St Michel de Maurienne (it would appear the Maurienne family have a hot line to the Vatican), then ride 21 miles to the Col to Galibier via the Col du Telegraphe and return, so about 60 miles with over 7,500ft of climbing. Two basic errors - we should have driven the bikes to St Michel and we should have set off sooner - but in the end it was the weather that scuppered our climbs, plus the traffic. We got up the Telegraphe with no real drama, although it was still nearly 3,500ft of climbing, and after the obligatory col photo we rolled down to Valloire, which was only marginally better than the 'Valley of the Damned' so became the 'Valley of the semi-Damned' (sadly no donkeys).
We stopped to take stock and noticed large thunder clouds building all around. Having very little gear with us if we did get caught and considering that we were heading up to around 8,500ft, we took the sensible (cowardly??) decision to beat an orderly retreat, back up over the Telegraphe (having to climb back up of course). The traffic was terrible all day, hundreds of motorcycles screamed past in both directions and at one point we were passed by 10 monster motor homes in a convoy. Not so many cyclists but a lot of Brits, including one group called 'Rusty Spokes', who when I chatted to them seemed to be very like our Thursday 'Old Time' cyclists.
Not doing the whole route gave us time to enjoy some 'straw art', which made me wonder how much free time French farmers have, plus we met a group from the UK parked up at the Col, all driving red and white 2CVs with names like Dilly and Dotty (the cars not the people). They were driving from Newhaven to Monte Carlo in 12 of these vehicles with an entire spare car being carried on top of a Fire and Rescue vehicle..........
We got back to base earlier than usual and have sat and listened to thunder roaring round us, the mountains swathed in black clouds with the odd rainbow appearing from time to time. As my Dad would have said 'He who fights and runs away lives to fight another day'. Our last ride tomorrow to the Col de Madeleine, so fingers crossed for the weather.
Pictures of today's ride, with all its cultural input- 2 of which appear at the top for some unknown reason........

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